Stock and Broth Basics

Why stock decides the flavor

Make the same soybean paste soup with the same vegetables, once with plain water and once with stock, and the difference in depth is obvious. Stock is the savory compounds and aromas of ingredients dissolved into water, and it makes a dish taste full without heavy seasoning. A good stock also means you can use less salt without the result tasting flat. It may seem intimidating, but the principle is simple: give the ingredients enough time at a temperature where flavor comes out, and remove them before off flavors develop. Learn three basic stocks and you can apply them to most soups and stews.

Start cold and simmer gently

Most stock ingredients are best put into cold water and heated together. Dropping them into boiling water sets the outside first, so less flavor escapes from inside. Once the water boils, turn the heat down so the surface just trembles. A hard, rolling boil clouds the stock and mixes in fat and off flavors. Long-boiled bone broths that are meant to turn milky are the exception, but for a clear broth a gentle simmer is the rule. Leaving the lid slightly ajar lets unwanted smells escape and stops the pot from boiling over.

Anchovy and kelp stock

This is the most basic Korean stock, used for soybean paste soup, stews and noodle broth. Removing the heads and guts of the dried anchovies reduces bitterness and fishiness. Toasting them briefly in a dry pot drives off moisture, cuts the fishy smell further and adds a nutty note. Kelp releases a slimy substance and turns the flavor dull if boiled for long, so the trick is to take it out early.

• Remove anchovy heads and guts, then toast briefly in a dry pot
• Put anchovies and kelp in cold water and heat over medium
• Take the kelp out first once the water starts to boil
• Lower the heat, simmer about 10 to 15 minutes more, then remove the anchovies
• Strain, and skim any foam from the surface with a ladle

Meat and bone stock

Stock made from beef, chicken or pork bones is rich and full-bodied. Soaking bones or meat in cold water to draw out blood reduces gamey smells. Blanching them once in boiling water, discarding that first water, rinsing the bones and starting again with fresh water makes the broth much cleaner. Skim off the grey foam and fat that rise during cooking, and do it often. Adding green onion roots, onion, garlic and whole peppercorns helps tame strong odors. Because it takes a long time, it is efficient to make a large batch and store it in portions. Once cooled, lift off the fat that sets white on top for a lighter taste.

Vegetable stock and using scraps

Vegetable stock suits meatless dishes and light, clean soups. Radish, onion, green onion, dried shiitake mushrooms and kelp make a basic combination. Radish brings a refreshing taste, onion sweetness, and dried shiitake a deep savory flavor. Soak the dried shiitake in cold water ahead of time and use the soaking liquid too for more depth. Saving clean scraps such as inner onion layers, green onion roots and radish ends to use later also cuts down on waste. Skip any scraps that still have soil on them or have started to spoil.

Seasoning and finishing

It is best not to add salt or soy sauce at the stock stage. Stock is boiled again and reduces as you use it, so seasoning it early easily makes the final dish too salty. Season at the end, when you finish the soup or stew, tasting as you go and adding a little at a time. Soup soy sauce adds color and aroma, while salt gives a clean taste. Using some of each lets you season properly without the broth turning too dark. If the broth tastes thin, check that the stock was steeped long enough before adding more salt.

Common mistakes

If your stock turns out bitter, fishy or cloudy, the cause is usually one of the following. More ingredients do not automatically mean better flavor; the key is the right amount steeped for the right time.

• Boiling unprepared anchovies for too long, which makes the stock bitter
• Leaving the kelp in until the end, which makes the broth slimy
• Keeping the heat high the whole time, which clouds the stock
• Not skimming the foam, which leaves off flavors
• Seasoning the stock in advance, so the finished dish ends up too salty

Storage and food safety

Stock is nutrient-rich and watery, which makes it an easy place for bacteria to grow. Cooling it in a big pot leaves the center warm for a long time, so divide it among several shallow containers, cool it quickly and refrigerate. Avoid leaving cooked stock out at room temperature overnight. Use refrigerated stock within a few days, and freeze anything you want to keep longer in single-use portions from the start. When using it, reheat until it comes to a full boil. Smell and taste cannot always tell you whether food is safe, so if stock is old or you are unsure how it was stored, throwing it out is the safe choice.